Building my sailboat called Nomad

2010-07-04T12:22:00.000-07:00

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Over the last several of days, we have had fairly decent
weather. The first thing that was done was to put on the
finish coat of resin on the foredeck. Once it was dry,
we started sanding the hull above the LWL. It was in
fairly tough shape. It seems that after the cloth was on,
we didn't sand the hull enough to completely get rid of
seams, burbles, runs, etc. before we painted it. We
decided that the paint that was put on served it purpose
as a prime and protection so we sanded it until the seams,
burbles, runs and other imperfections were gone. The
amount of paint dust created was phenominal. It was
washed off with a wet T-shirt and wiped dry with another.
Then the foredeck was sanded to get rid of the wax and to
prepare it for paint. The entire cockpit area was also
sanded while we were at it.

Wednesday a cold front came thru with a drop in afternoon
temperatures of almost 15 degrees. We decided to paint.
The color that we chose for the hull was a fairly light blue
and, turns out to be a discontinued color. There was only
one quart of it and we hoped that that would be enough to
do the job. We got all of one side done as well as the
transom and found that there is not enough left over to do
the other side. The same company makes a dark blue and a
white. Via email, the company assured me that colors
from the same line could be mixed without interfering with
the characteristics of the paint. Later that afternoon,
I went after the two colors and start mixing one of blue
with one of white and check the result. It was wrong so
I kept adding white until the mix came out right. I have
a clean empty quart can to put the result into to save for
touch up as needed (with the formula written on the can)
and with a new color label.

We decided that all of the trim on the boat should be in
some contrasting color and finally selected mahogany as a
good choice. The company doesn't make it, but they do make
a red and a brown. After some experimentation, we found
that a one to one mix came out as an excellent choice. It
may not actually match mahogany (more like OxBlood) but it
looks super. Not letting any grass grow under our feet and
to take advantage of the cool weather, almost all of the
trim was painted Thursday morning. It looks great against
the light blue of the hull.

Friday morning, we started mixing the dark blue with the
white to try to match the light blue that is already on the
hull. The final mix was 1 part of the dark blue and 4 parts
white.

Saturday morning we went after the paint for the decks. For
that we chose an Almond -- a little darker than an ivory.
Somewhere, I read that trying to PAINT a deck with white
would actually end up looking more gray so whomever suggested
using an almost white instead. The main deck is now painted.
It needs another coat -- even tho the deck was sanded,
apparently it was not rough enough so the brush tended to
skip a little leaving a streaky finish. One quart of the
Almond was not enough to do all of the painting so first
thing in the morning, I'll go get another quart.

2010-06-18T10:15:00.000-07:00

Friday 18 June 2010

Beginning yesterday, we have finally gotten a weather pattern
where we are not being threatened with rain everyday. So,
yesterday, we painted the deck with heavily thinned resin.
Then painted it again with no so heavily thinned resin and
a third time with moderately thinned resin. The object is to
have the resin soak very deeply into the wood. That took all
morning. By noontime, the temperature was in the high 90's
with humidity about the same. So we quit until this morning.
To do all of the above, we moved the boat out of the garage
into the driveway. When we were done with the "base" coat
we quit but didn't move the boat back into the garage because
after all we needed to put down the bonding coat with fiber-
glass in place. The problem was, there was heavy dew over
night so everything was wet.

We dried everything, then went off to the hardware store
to collect brushes, Bondo spreaders, and paint rollers. We
intended to use the spreaders to spread the resin rather than
the rollers because it's easier to do it with the spreaders when
the cloth can still move because it stuck to a roller. When we
came back from the hardware store everything was dry enough
to lay out the cloth and to begin putting on the bond coat.
Unfortunately, the wind decided to pick up a little but not so
much that a few bricks judiciously located couldn't keep the
cloth in place. Once the resin is in the cloth, it no longer
moves. We are using polyester resin. The temperature had
gotten high enough so that it was causing the resin to set way
too fast. We cut back to half as much hardener and it still was
curing way too fast. So we mixed VERY small batches of resin
and as a last resort, we added a small amount of acetone to the
mix to make it more liquid and hopefully would stay liquid a
little longer. That worked ! ! ! !

When we finished, with the bonding coat, we quit for coffee,
in the hopes that the bonding coat would cure enough so we
could put on the "Weave filling coat". It cured alright but
it had gotten late enough (11:30 AM) that the temp. was too
high for us and anyway when we checked the surface, it needed
sanding but wasn't cured enough to do that.

We went looking, and found a tarp big enough to cover the boat
so that we can start in first thing in the morning right after
breakfast and not have to worry about the nighttime dews.
Never too old to learn.

2010-06-07T08:43:00.001-07:00

Monday, 7 June, 2010

Below is a picture taken of hatch into the cabin taken when

The last posting I said that we were shutting down to go

north to visit my mother on her 102 birthday. She's doing

well. Last year she needed a walker to get around, this

year she does not. She is more blind and deafer than last

but she still has all of her faculties. She lives with my

sister Mary and her husband. When Mary makes supper, Ma

is in the kitchen chopping vegetables.

We finally made it back home after 10 days. It turns out

that both Kathy and I had doctors appointments -- as usual

first thing in the morning which tends to ruin the entire

day for getting anything done. Of course, one full day

was spent grocery shopping. And at my age recovery from

a trek like that is slower than for someone younger than I

so there went a couple of days.

We did get serious and started filling screw head holes.

Then sanded them smooth. It is astonishing just how many

screws were driven. The entire cockpit was finished first

and then the cabin top. The cabin top has 4 pieces of

plywood. Two running the length of the boat at the bow

followed by two running across the width of the boat. The

seams where these come together were filled. When the

filling was done, it was all sanded to smooth enough that

the seam could not be felt with the fingers.

This morning, the entire cockpit was painted with its first

coat of epoxy. When that dries, the whole thing will be

sanded just enough to remove dust particles and painted again

with epoxy.

2010-05-08T08:09:00.000-07:00

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Below is a picture taken of hatch into the cabin taken when

standing beyond the transom looking over the top of the

transom. At the left is the side rail that will serve as a back rest

when sitting on the seat. As can be seen from the picture, we

are almost ready to paint. We have decided that the entire

topside should be painted a fairly light color so as to reflect as

much heat as possible. Otherwise, the seats and the rail, as well

as the cabin could get truely uncomfortably hot.

At the moment, we are shutting down all further work on the

boat for the next 2 weeks so as to head north to visit my mother

on, or at least close, to her 102nd birthday. We'll visit with my

brother for a couple of days and then head west to upstate NY

to visit Kathy's family -- particularly her brother Mark who's

band is playing 50's music in a concert sponsored by one of the

TV stations there. He's reserved tickets for us for the show.

After that we'll head north, up into the Adirondacks to visit one

of our oldest friends who recently became a widow. We'll also

visit with former neighbors and other friends and finally come

home to rest ( and go back to work on the boat).

2010-05-06T15:25:00.000-07:00

Friday, May 6, 2010

The weather has been threatening so some of the

work, such as painting the faces of the pieces

that do not show with a good grade enamel has been

deferred due to the weather. This deferral of

work on the boat has been compounded by the need to

take my wife to the doctor for her regular checkup.

In addition we are trying to get everything ready

for a 1800 mile round trip to visit my mother on

her 102nd birthday and then go west some 350 miles

to attend a concert where brother-in-law's band

is starring. In any event.

All of the multiplicity of pieces that make up the

cockpit have been resined on both sides and then

painted on the side that doesn't show when it is

assembled. The side that shows will be painted when

the cockpit is all put back together.

Yesterday morning the major part of the cockpit was

reassembled. With the cockpit sole in place, we

decided to take the opportunity to finish the hatch

way into the cabin. That was accomplished and then

we finished the reassembly.

At this point, we stepped back and discussed how to

trim the edges where two surfaces meet. Also, what

color should it be. Larry pointed out that if we

painted with a dark color like mahogany, that the

surfaces of the seats could get uncomfortable HOT

during mid summer. We've decided that perhaps an off

white, like Sand, would work. Now we need to pack

several 1000 countersunk screw holes with plastic wood.

I'll add a picture when the cockpit is ready for paint.

2010-04-23T13:13:00.000-07:00

Friday, April 23, 2010

Yesterday, we completely disassembled the cockpit of

all of its multiplicity of parts and marked them to identify

where they go. This morning we set up sawhorses with

cross planks to hold all those parts and moved them all

outside. In accordance with a website on "How to

Waterproof Wood", we proceeded to paint both sides and

all of the edges of every piece of wood that make up the

cockpit. That's 1 part of resin and 3 parts of acetone and

hardener for 4 parts of resin. This mix really soaks into

the wood. The website said that this mix should be

followed by a mix consisting of 1 part resin to 2 parts of

acetone with hardener for 3 parts of resin. We decided

not to do that because there was another website that

said it appeared that well primed and well painted wood

mounted with the painted side buried held up as well as

or better than wood painted with resin. We decided that

we'll split the difference and basically prime with resin and

use a high quality oil paint on the invisible face and the

edges.

We were sort of eager to get the resin priming done today

because the weatherman is threatening us with rain for the

next 2 or 3 days.

2010-04-21T10:33:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The last couple of posts have shown a number of pictures which

have included a glimpse of the hatchway into the cabin. None of

them are very clear. I took several pictures of the construction

of the hatchway showing the frame around the opening and the doorway.

None of the pictures came out very well -- they were all fuzzy.

Unfortunately the opening is completely framed with the frame

members glued and screwed in place. The one picture that did come

out looking good is the picture showing the completed hatchway.

Yesterday morning we framed the hatchway, made the hatch itself and

finally the doorway. In the picture, you can see that the doorway

is in 2 pieces. We must be pretty good because we looked all over

trying to find a piece of 1/2" plywood big enough to make the doorway

but there aren't any left -- We've used it all up ! ! !

This doorway still has a little work left to do. There are ears

sticking up on each side of the door that have to come off. Further,

there is no provision to ensure that rain water doesn't get into the

crack between the upper and lower halves. This crack needs some sort

of drip edge.

This morning we can totally disassemble the entire cockpit into

its multitude of small pieces so that both sides and all of the

edges can be painted with resin to make them all waterproof. When

that's done, we'll reassemble it again. It's raining today, so

we have to wait until another day to do the painting of the pieces.

We want to lay all the pieces out on sawhorses to do the painting.

We don't want to bend over any more than necessary. Old and fat

has its problems ! ! !

2010-04-18T06:45:00.001-07:00

Sunday, April 18 2010

As mentioned sometime over the last couple of days, there are

posts sticking up above the gunnel at the cockpit that will become

backs of the seats. The picture below shows those posts. What

you are looking at is the seat running from the center of the

picture at the left to the center of the picture at the bottom. Just

above the seat is the inside of the hull. About half way up the

posts is the gunnel to which is attached a sturdy carlin running

from post to post. On top of that is the cap above which are the

empty posts.

The picture below shows a liner running from the back of

the seat up to the underside of the cap. Since the entire

cockpit needs to be disassembled so that everything can be

coated with resin on both sides, this liner is being held in place

with a clamp and a board.

The picture below, shows the "cap", fitted around a post

and permanently screwed down in place.

The picture below shows the rail that forms the top of the

back of the seat rest. It is morticed onto the top of the post.

It is not yet permanently screwed in place because the cap

needs to be sanded smooth first.

If I haven't mentioned it before, I live in North Carolina.

The traditional wood used for frame members from Maryland

south all the way to Texas was southern yellow pine. SYP is

very hard, very dense and very strong. It is the south's answer

to white oak being very nearly its equivalent in hardness and

strength. The major difference between the two is SYP does

NOT steam bend very well so frames are sawn instead. SYP

has one attribute that makes it extremely attractive here and

that is -- it is readily available here and is quite inexpensive.

You can go into almost any NON-BIG-BOX lumberyard and

buy 1 X 12's that are 16 feet long, that are completely free from

knots, shakes, splits, sap streaks, or any other imperfections

and get it cheaper than the best spruce from say Lowe's or Home

Depot ! ! ! ! Around here, the ordinary house carpenter uses

it for home construction. You or I would have to drill a hole

in order to drive a nail. Carpenters around here don't have to

do that.

2010-04-16T11:25:00.000-07:00

Friday, April 16, 2010

Below are 2 pictures of the cockpit. I had wanted to upload

these pictures several days ago when I added to the blog

about trimming out the cockpit. For some reason, I had

severe problems in trying to do that then but finally

succeeded today. I think that my browser is infected with

something that was causing the problem because I changed

to a different browser and altho there were problems,

I did get them to upload. The first picture above is facing

the stern. The second is more or less facing forward.

Please forgive the fact that there are tools and debris

cluttering up the seats and cockpit sole.

If you look at the first picture, you can see the seats.

Behind the seats are posts sticking up. Those posts are NOT

the tops of the frames. They were added to the top of the

frames to support the backrest of the seat. When looking

at a post, you see the post and behind it, there is the inside

of the hull. That area has now been sheathed up to the

level of the gunnel and the top, at gunnel level has been

capped. The top of the post was (temporarily) capped this

morning. That is the cap was put there but has not yet been

secured in place because the entire cockpit area has to be

disassembled to waterproof seal all of the pieces with resin

before final assembly. When opportunity presents itself,

I will get a picture of seat backrest with cap, etc.. to show

the progress.

While we were at it, this morning, we started trimming the

cabin hatchway. I should be able to get those pictures today

too.

2010-04-10T10:56:00.000-07:00

Saturday, April 10, 2010

This time of year is particularly busy. It is almost spring
planting time. My garden has been fitted and is ready to
plant as soon as I get tomato and pepper sets, seeds for
pole beans and maybe a row of carrots. The weather at
this time of year has become warm without being humid
and the gnats are not yet out. My house is being painted
-- about 3/4 finished. The white trim is next.

There has still been time to work on the boat. We have
been working on the cockpit. The floor of the cockpit is
in two levels -- the lowest part is horizontal and parallel
with the water -- the rest follows the upcurve of the hull.
This second part was difficult to get in place and to fit
properly with the main portion because nothing is straight
or perpendicular with anything else. We finally got it.

Then came the fronts of the seats. We decided to put a
seat across the transom as well as along the two sides. The
seat across the transom has a battery storage area under the
seat for the electric trolling motor that we want to use.
Then came the seats themselves. The seat backs and were
done this morning. While we were at it, we also closed in
the gap at the gunnel in order to install a cap to prevent
water from getting behind the seats and into the bilges.

At this point we decided that we had made enough
progress that we could celebrate our success by sharing a
jar of Guiness. We decided to sit in the cockpit to do it.

ALL of the work that we have done on the cockpit is
temporary because every piece that goes in needs to be
carefully fitted to every piece that went in before it.
When we are satisfied that everything is as it should be,
we will completely disassemble the cockpit so as to paint
both surfaces and the edges of every piece to make them as
waterproof as possible. Then we'll reassemble.

2010-04-04T12:09:00.000-07:00

Sunday 4 April 2010

Although my finger is still in tough shape, we
still have managed to get some work done on the
boat. We have managed to dimension and cut a
sheet of 3/4" thick plywood to make most of the
deck in the cockpit. Larry measured from the
outside face of the bulkhead that is the aftmost
bulkhead of the cabin and discovered that it is
almost exactly 4 feet to the second frame aft of
that bulkhead (actually 47-3/4") and since the
side to side width of the cockpit floor at the
bulkhead is 50", and we did not want to split
the cockpit floor down the middle, then it was
better to make the floor in 2 pieces running the
length of a 48" X 96" sheet. So that is what we
did. We measured it, cut it and it almost
dropped exactly into position. It had to be
forced, but it fit. We actually took it out
and trimmed about 1/8" off in one place to make
it fit perfectly. Now there will be a short
seam (about 20 inches long) about 24" from the
rear end of the cockpit. In retrospect, I'm
not entirely convinced that a long seam running
down the middle would be all that bad.

Once that first piece of the cockpit floor
was in place, we were able to stand looking at
what was left to better visualize what the
remaining pieces of the cockpit bottom were
going to look like. In any case we decided
that we had gone far enough and to do any more
would be to tempt fate -- so we quit for the
day. That was actually Friday. Yesterday,
Saturday, I had my Property Owners Association
Annual Meeting to attend (where I am Secretary)
and Larry had an Easter Pageant to go to to
rehearse (where he sings in the choir) so we
decided to quit until Monday.

2010-03-27T12:58:00.000-07:00

Saturday, 27 March 2010

I'm still basically out of business because of my finger.
I am able to do a little bit but only if I'm very careful
not to bump it.

This morning all of the posts on the starboard side that
will support the seat back slats in the cockpit were
removed (they were install only temporarily), trimmed a
little to make them fit better and permanently installed.
While we were at it, the knee at the transom, starboard
side, was also permanently mounted.

Then we stood there and discussed at length, how the
cockpit seats would be put in. That included the discovery
that if a seat were put in across the boat at the transom,
there would be enough room under the seat for 2 batteries
to run the electric trolling motor that I want to use to go
the more or less 600 feet down the canal from my home
to big sailing water and back.

We also talked about needing a least one battery in the
cabin below the entry hatch under the steps. We feel that
it shouldn't take too large diamter wire to run charging
DC from the transom the 7 feet or so to inside the cabin.
The cabin battery is for running lights and cabin lights.
If it is possible, I would like to consider an inverter to
convert the DC to 110V AC if for no other reason than the
current drawn would be a lot lower allowing smaller
diameter and, so, less expensive wire. Since the power
drawn would still be the same, it means that I need to
research using LED lights everywhere ! ! !

2010-03-24T16:08:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, 24 March 2010

For the last couple of days, the weather has been warm
enough to work on the boat. We are up to doing the cockpit.
Those frames that used to stick up in the cockpit area, that
were used only to support the rear of the boat when the
boat was upside down, have been removed. They no longer
serve a useful purpose and are actually in the way. After
removing them we stood there and stared into the cockpit
trying to figure out just what it was that we wanted to
accomplish there. Among other things we noticed was
that the back of the cockpit seats were so low that they
would be very uncomfortable. We decided that should
raise the back of the seat but didn't really want to raise
what would look like the gunnel to do it. It finally dawned
on us that if the seat backs were slats, we could accomplish
what we wanted and still not make the rear end of the boat
look like a box, would give something to lean back on, and
would give plenty of air circulation besides. To make a
slatted seat back, we needed to make posts to secure the
slats to with the posts extending down below the gunnel.
After due consideration, we decided that since the
available extension below the gunnel didn't amount to
too much, the extension above the gunnel should be kept
fairly short so as to not put too much strain on the posts --
after all, guaranteed some one some time would swing on
what we put there. We also thought that there should be
some sort of cap put on the top of the gunnel to hide the raw
edge of the gunnel and to dress it up. We thought further
that the top of the posts should have a cap running the
length of the cockpit to dress the top of the seat back. This
should be something fairly substantial without looking like
we were trying to support the entire world. To make a long
story short, we decided that a 6 inch extension above the
gunnel would give adequate seat back support and would
look good.

On finishing installing the posts, we next decided to
establish where and how the seats would be put in. After
some discussion, we argued that the helmsman could sit
on a seat that went from one side of the boat across the
transom to the other side. Passengers, being lesser
creatures, could sit along the sides of of the cockpit. To
do this called for a substantial beam to support the forward
edge of the seat. Before this could be accomplished, the knees
that should have been mounted at the gunnel earlier during
the construction needed to be mounted. Fitting these knees
is an interesting problem since they are 1-1/2 inches thick.
the two legs are not at 90 degrees to one another and each
of the two legs has a different bevel from top to bottom.

Both of the knees were fabricated this morning, but on
the finishing cut on the second knee, the bandsaw grabbed
the knee out of my hands. I should have let go of it but I had
visions of it getting messed up enough to have to make another
one from scratch. The result was that my left index finger was
dragged into the bandsaw blade. I said "DIRTY WORD, DIRTY
WORD, DIRTY DIRTY WORD" and told my friend that we
had to go to the emergency room at the hospital to fix me up.

I now have a cut on the upper side of the finger from just
above the fingernail to half way from the middle joint of the
finger to the knuckle of the back of my hand. The cut is about
2-1/4 inches (6omm) long and goes in almost to the bone.
There is no tendon damage and bone itself is not cut. There
are 11 stitches. The entire finger is covered in a bandage that
is longer than the finger and is almost as wide as the finger is
long. The doctor says that there will be no loss of motion
when it cures. That is a good thing because playing clarinet
with 9 fingers could be interesting.

I asked him, how long before I could go back to work on
the boat. He would only say that I have to go see my regular
doctor to check on infection in a couple of days, and that
the stitches would come out on 10 to 14 days.

2010-03-18T13:47:00.000-07:00

Thursday, 18 March 2010

Today we installed the rear half of the cabin
deck. We went across the boat with it because
the distance between the major carrying beams
was 48 inches from middle to middle. All there
is left is two square piece, one on each side of
the hatchway. They should be a lot easier than
warping the piece today. We started on one side
of the boat and worked across to the other side.
Larry worked off the step stool. I worked by
sitting on the sheet to try to bend it down
enough to put the screws into it. We finally,
put 2 inch screws at the gunnel to force the
sheet down and to hold it in position while 1-1/2
inch screws were put into the center of the sheet.
We felt that by working from one side to the other,
we could progressively force the sheet into place.
The idea worked just great. There is no gap between
the under side of the sheet and the top of the gunnel.

Below is a picture of the deck in its current
condition. When the last two pieces have been put
on, I'll make a little jig to mark the lateral
position of the side of the boat so that the over-
hang can be cut off.

2010-03-12T13:27:00.000-08:00

12 March 2010
Friday 12 March

After the one warm day, Monday 22 Feb., it got cold again. In
addition, I went to the doctor for cataract surgery on both eyes.
That put me out of business for several weeks. According to the
doctor, my vision is now 20/20 except, he said, that I might need
reading glasses and that I had some astigmatism that would interfere
with distance vision. I do not need reading glasses unless I'm
doing extremely fine work but I do need the astigmatism correction.
On the same day that I was told my vision is so good, my family
doctor told me that my blood pressure was 124/68 -- almost teenager.
If I keep getting rejuvenated one piece at a time, I could eventually
become a danger ! ! !

It is now the middle of March, and the weather has FINALLY become
warm enough to work in the garage on the boat.

Today the cabin deck beams were made, and the forwardmost portion
of the foredeck over the cabin was installed. But only after
struggling with installing the storage deck in the bow inside. What
a piece of work. It was found that the two sides of the boat are
NOT exactly identical. This, of course was discovered only after
cutting out the two halves and trying to install them. The port
side piece fit after a minor adjustment. The starboard side piece
needed to be completely recut. The foredeck over the cabin looks
beautiful. I'll add a picture when time and opportunity permit.

This afternoon, I cut a strengthener to be glued and screwed to
the beam at the forward end of the hatchway. We decided to do this
because, guaranteed, the heaviest person ever will decide to swing
into the cabin on that beam. Once that has been strengthened, we
will add to the cabin overhead deck. The hollow keel still has to
be covered -- this cannot be permanent until the ballast has been
put in. We are still collecting scrap metal to do this. There is
no particular hurry on this provided that the covers for the hollow
keel sections are merely laid in place, and, of course, that the
internal deck sections are also not screwed down. We are reluctant
to pour the ballast until the boat is in the water so we can properly
set trim.

2010-02-22T11:38:00.000-08:00

Monday 22 February 2010

To day is the first time since the middle of December that it
is warm enough to work on the boat.
A week ago or so I bought a waterproof penetrating oil primarily
intended for wooden decks. The stuff is thinner than water and the
can says that it can be sprayed. So I bought a cheap garden sprayer
figuring that if worst came to worst that if it only made it through
the spraying of the inside of the boat once before it died, that I would
be ahead. The can said that the coverage for the gallon was about
25o square feet (about 24 sq. m). The garden sprayer cannot spray
that fine. But I noticed that the stuff soaked in beautifully. Special
attention was taken for the hollow keel which will ultimately be
filled with ballast. It is imperative that if water were to get into the
boat, that it NOT sit in the hollow keel against bare wood or the wood
would rot. A considerable amount of the stuff that was sprayed into
the inside of the boat ran down and into the keel --- this is just fine ! !
We think that we covered between 1/3 to 1/2 of the inside this morning.
At first opportunity, I will buy 2 more gallons of this stuff to finish
the spraying of the inside and still have some left over to spray the
deckhouse roof inside and the underside of the plywood that will form
the cockpit floor and seats.
My friend Larry and I both believe that we have each gained about
10 pounds due to some 9 weeks of inactivity ! ! ! !

2010-01-20T14:36:00.000-08:00

20 Jan 2010

Since the middle of last month the weather has been
cold. Since the garage in unheated, there has been
no work done on the boat. That's probably been
just as well, since my wife has had a neurological
problem calling for trips of some 75 miles, one way,
just to visit the specialist. There were 3 trips none
of which gave results as to what the problem is or
what to do about it. Then too, the week before
last we both started the procedures leading up to
cataract surgery. We've both had surgury on one
eye and have started the process for the other
eye. The surgery for that will be next week.

Today, the weather was reasonably warm, so
we started making and installing the cabin roof
beams. The main hatch has been framed and all
of the beams have been installed. There is still
some trimming to do. When that has been done,
everything will be glued and screwed in place.
When that is finished and looks good, there will
be a picture to show progress.

2009-12-12T07:17:00.000-08:00

Saturday, 12 December 2009

The weather has turned cold enough that we decided that we are not

going to be able to get decent weather anymore that would enable us

to work on the inside of the boat with it lying on its side. One of the

things that we had wanted to do was to epoxy the entire inside before

tipping the boat all the way over. The weather today is below freezing

and they are threatening us with rain for late in the day today and all

day tomorrow. Monday is supposed to be fair, and cold but we decided

that we were going to need all the help we could get to tip the boat so

it has to be done today when help is available. Anyway by Monday we

want to be able to start work on the inside of the boat.

The boat is shown in the photo below, still upside down, but with the

cradles and the roll cages on. That's Larry removing the last screws

that hold the boat to the skateboard.

Larry and I had help from two of my neighbors in the tipping

process. Steve (about my size -- short and sort of overweight) and

Jerry (more nearly Larry's size). Larry, Steve and Jerry did the

lifting to do the tipping. I was on the other side to make sure that

when it went over, that it didn't go too far or too fast. With four,

the tip was a piece of cake.

The photo below shows the boat part way over, sitting on one of

the flats on the roll cage. You can look past the boat underneath

to see the skateboard freed from the boat. The boat was rolled

until all that was left to go was the last flat of the roll cage which

would have the boat sitting upright. At that point the skateboard

was rolled around so that that last turn would be onto the

skateboard. It didn't quite make it all the way, requiring the

skateboard to be blocked from moving and the cradles slid across

the skateboard in order to be centered. It only needed to be slid

by about 8 inches or so.

The last photo, below, is with the boat finally sitting upright on the

cradles. After having looked at the boat upside down for so long,

sitting upright the boat looks VERY strange ! ! ! ! We can now

stand on stools to look inside to see how much work still needs to

be done to finish.

2009-12-09T12:19:00.000-08:00

Wednesday, 9 December 2009

The picture below shows the cradles that will support the

boat once it has been turned over. They will be padded

with carpet before being used. The red in the photo is

a nylon strap to bind the cradle to the boat.

To make the roll cage, we felt that we needed to make measurements

of the chine positions. We felt that the chine positions according to

what is shown on previous posting are not completely relevant

because they are to the inside of the planking. We now, of course

have 1/2 inch planking covered with a layer of fiberglass with at least

four coats of epoxy. and 2 coats of paint. The figure below shows

how the horizontal positions of the chines were made.

The pertinent part is the disembodied hand that is

holding a large square with a yard stick resting on top

of it. The projection of the stick beyond the left edge

of the white board was recorded along with the height

of the bottom of the yardstick from the floor. When

we had all of the measurements, including the

distance to the side of the keel and the height of the

top of the cradle, we transfered the measurements

to a plywood panel. That gave the contour to the

panel to match the contour of the boat at the

position along the length of the boat. Here, it is

Station 7. After some discussion, we settled on the

outside shape of the roll cage. The roll cage at

Station 7, is shown in the next 3 photos. The first

two are looking from the bow facing aft. The third

is looking from the stern facing foreward.

The 2X4 that can be seen below is there to give

something really sturdy to pivot on when beginning

to tip the boat over. Not really seen in the photos

is the fact that the pads that are resting against

the boat are covered with carpet to minimize scuffs.

2009-12-08T18:54:00.000-08:00

Tuesday, 8 December 2009

Life has been rather hectic for the last several days.

The weather hasn't been very nice either -- it has been

cold and rainy. As a result we've been talking about

how to turn the boat over so that it will finally be

upside right. After all, the inside needs to be done

too. So as to be able to move the boat from inside

the garage to the outside, it should still sit on that

"skateboard" rather than on a trailer that I do not

have. To sit on the skateboard, it will have to be

supported by some kind of cradle. After some

thought, we decided that we could combine the

cradle with a roll cage. A little drawing, using the

frames that have already been drawn -- see the

post for 20 Sept 2009 -- we decided on what the

combined roll cage/cradle ought to look like.

What we came up with is shown in the figure below:

Looking at Sta 7, there is a double line running across that

is 24 long. That double line is a 4 foot long 2X4. Attached

to it is a short 2X4. At the boat end of the attached 2X4 is

a 2X4 that is on a diagonal, the flat side of which is pressed

against the hull of the boat. There are 2 more 2X4 attached

to the outline that is outside of the hull. That outline is

the roll cage. The diagonal 2X4 and the 2X4 that are

connected to it are the cradle. To be effective, of course,

there must be 2 cradles --- we have one at Sta 7 and one

at Sta 13. The outside curve of the roll cage is currently

not entirely fixed and is expected to change when we try to

implement it.

2009-12-03T07:55:00.000-08:00

Thursday, 3 December 2009

This morning, checked the freeboard paint for dryness. And

since it was dry, we took the masking tape off and retaped to

paint with the antifouling paint. When we finished with

putting on the antifouling, the paint had dried enough to

strip the tape. We went in and had a cup of coffee to celebrate.

The antifouling paint that we used was an antifouling bottom

paint made by Rustoleum that comes in two colors, Blue and

Black. We used the Blue. There isn't a lot of contrast between

the colors of the freeboard paint and the bottom paint, so when

comes time to put on the second coat of bottom paint, I'll use the

Black. A picture of the boat is shown below.

2009-12-02T09:20:00.000-08:00

Wednesday, 2 December 2009

The climate here has been so cold and wet that the epoxy

that was put on last Wednesday didn't cure until Monday.

On Monday we sanded the final coat of epoxy with 80 grit

paper using a palm sander except at the filet between the

body of the hull and the side face of the keel. At the filet,

the only thing that would get in close enough was a 3"

belt sander. Since belt sanders are so aggressive, it was

loaded with a 120 grit belt. This belt sander is old and

getting tired and so runs quite slowly as compared with

my small new belt sander. The result is that the belt

doesn't seem to load up as badly as does the palm sander.

Somewhere I read that if the sand paper loads up, then

either the epoxy is not sufficiently cured, or the paper

grit is not coarse enough. In any case, the boat was sanded,

cleaned off by giving a rinse down with paper towels wetted

with acetone. That done, we rigged up a piece of plywood

about 5 feet tall and about 1 foot wide with a horizontal

arm at the height of the waterline and we marked the waterline

height along the length of the boat.

A strip of painter's tape was run just above this line so that

the freeboard could be painted --- remember the boat is still

upsidedown on the giant skateboard. We felt that since the

non-fouling bottom paint is black that it would be easier to

do it this way than to paint the black bottom first. Maybe

we are right. Anyway this was yesterday.

Since I'm retired and the economy is not good and I'm

building on a shoe string, the paint chosen is Rustoleum

#7730 Teal. Very pretty blue-green color. This is an

agricultural area -- farms are of the order of 1500 acres

(this northeastern North Carolina). The county has a

total of 13000 people! ! ! The local farmers paint all of

their machinery with Rustoleum and then leave the

equipment out in the weather. Farmers tend to be seriously

practical people. They traditionally DO NOT waste money

or any other non-renewable resource if they can avoid it.

I grew up as a subsistence farmer during the great depression

-- remember I'll be 81 next month. The engineering degree

that I mentioned at the beginning of this blog was paid for

by Uncle Sam. I tend to observe and do what local farmers

will do.

This morning, the paint was dry, so it was sanded with

100 grit paper in palm sanders, and wiped off smooth.

Yesterday, the first coat of paint took 2 quarts of paint.

Today, the second coat took only 1 quart. Below is a picture

of Larry applying the second coat of paint.

2009-11-25T16:53:00.000-08:00

Wednesday, 25 November 2009

The day before yesterday, we sanded the entire hull with 80

grit paper, and then brushed and wiped off the sanding dust.

We then proceded to paint the fill coat. We did this in 3

batches each having 2 cups of resin with 1 cup of hardener.

The weather has been so cold and wet that the resin was

just mildly tacky this morning.

We sanded the boat with 80 grit paper just like before and

again painted it with 3 batches mixed just like before. We

don't expect to be able to get back to work on the boat until

next Monday because tomorrow is Thanksgiving and it is

supposed to be chilly for the next couple of days.

2009-11-21T09:12:00.001-08:00

Saturday, 21 November 2009

Yesterday we started sanding down the wrinkles and seams.

In the process of doing that, we found a whole bunch of

bubbles. They were dug out and sanded and marked with

a chalk for later. We sanded for only a little more when

my wife informed me that we had to go downtown. We

decided to mix a very small batch of putty (1/2 cup of

epoxy with the the epoxy sanding dust -- mixed until it

was like tuna salad ---- we are using a 2 to 1 epoxy to

hardener). About half of that mix was mixed with

1/8 cup of hardener which thinned it so much that we mixed

more sanding dust to get a decent paste again. This was

smoothed into the divots with a cleaned Bondo spreader.

Today, we checked, and in spite of it having been quite

cold overnight, the putty was hard so we started sanding

the seams and wrinkles again. Again we found some bubbles.

Again we marked them for later and completely sanded the

entire boat. We used up the rest of the putty to fill these

new divots.

As a matter of academic interest, the putty filled holes

sanded easily and smoothly. Using putty like this seems to

be a far better way of filling a bubble than using a small piece

of glass cloth. When filling the holes, we were very careful

to get the surface as smooth as possible just using the

spreader. Our hope is that Monday morning when we can

back to it, either no sanding or only a light sanding at the

divots will be enough. We'll find out. The first thing we'll

do is to vacuum off the boat and then give it a good scrub

fore and aft and in the process check the patches at the divots.

Washed and wiped, the boat will be ready for the coat of

epoxy to fill the weave in the cloth.

2009-11-19T11:28:00.000-08:00

Thursday,18 Nov 2009

We expected to start sanding down the entire boat

so as to put on the fill coat of epoxy. This is according

to what we found as the best way of applying epoxy :

which was to put on a primer coat; then a wetting coat

put the glass into the wet epoxy, smooth the surface

getting out wrinkles, bubbles, etc. and squeegie with

Bondo spreaders to eliminate runs, etc.; then the fill

coat to fill the remaining weave left by the squeegied

wetting coat' and finally the finish coat onto which

the paint can be applied after sanding and dewaxing.

Unfortunately, the last bit of the glass was put on

fairly late yesterday and it was cold, wet and rainy

overnight. It is warm today but damp and rainy

and the epoxy is still tacky.

We were able to enlist the aid of a skinny 35 year old

kid to crawl under the boat on the skateboard to take

out all of the screws that hold the boat (upside down)

on the skateboard. I'm short, fat and over 80. Larry

is very large (former football player), not young and

also overweight. Joey, to us at 35 and only 130

pounds is a skinny kid. He was able to crawl around

under there with no problems. The boat is built

on plywood bulkheads, some of which go nearly all

the way across the boat. These bulkheads mark off

the forward bunks, the head, the galleys and, of

course, the end of the cabin and beginning of the

cockpit.

The point of the stem, the frames in the cockpit, and

the sternpost are still attached so we'll have no

problem with the boat becoming detached from the

skateboard as we move it in and out of the garage to

work on it.

Progress is progress, even if it is only a half of a

step ! ! ! !

2009-11-18T15:58:00.000-08:00

Wednesday,18 Nov 2009

Today we finished with the fiberglassing. There was a

triangular piece on each side of the bow and the piece

going from the point of the bow to the foot and then the

entire length of the keel to put on. We finished and

noticed and fixed a couple of bubbles that had cropped

up. When we were done we sat down at the dining room

table and shared a jar of Guinness in celebration of our

progress.

Tomorrow we should be able to start grinding off the

surface irregularities, like seams, wrinkles, places where

fiberglass fuzz accumulated, runs, etc.. Then, we'll wash

the boat to get rid of the grinding dust and give the entire

boat a coat to fill the weave in the cloth. Then another

sanding, with finer sand paper, to further smooth the

surface. That will be followed by the final coat of epoxy.

Finally we'll paint. When we have it painted, there'll be

another picture of our progress and Larry and I will

probably share another jar of Guinness ! ! !

2009-11-16T11:37:00.000-08:00

Monday 16, November 2009

We spent almost all of last week hunkering down because of

the Nor'easter the went thru here. The new order for epoxy

came in on Thursday, but the weather was too cold and wet

to even think about working on the boat.

Today, it's bright, warm and sunshine ! ! ! We rolled the boat

out of the garage to fiberglass the other side from where we

had left off down to the gunnel (remember, the boat is upside

down on a skateboard). The new epoxy is a 2 to one mix

(2 resin to 1 hardener) and is a lot easier to mix. It also seems

to be a lot easier to use and seems to go farther. Of course

that may be nothing more than that we are now experienced

hands. When we get done, we'll really know how to do it but

won't have anything to do. We have thought that since we are

having so much fun building this boat, that it would be nice if

we could sell it and start in on another bigger boat.

Anyway we finished the other side in about 1-1/2 hours of

concentrated effort and decided to quit for the day.

The next time will be to put a patch at the bow, both sides, and

to glass the transom. We want to put a strip from the point of

the bow, down the stem to the keel, and the entire length of the

keel. That way the stem and keel will get extra abrasion

protection against running into something or running aground.

2009-11-09T16:20:00.000-08:00

Monday, 9 November 09

Today the temperature is going into the 70's and it is not

supposed to rain. It is supposed to rain beginning tonight,

and continue all day tomorrow, Wed. and Thurs.

We rolled the boat out into the driveway and set up to glass

from where we left off (halfway down the side) and glass all

the way to the gunnel (cabin top forward -- because the

cabin goes all the way from one side to the other). We held

the 5 foot wide roll against the side and marked the edge

with masking tape top and bottom and cut the glass below

the gunnel (or cabin top). We then proceeded to lay out the

next piece, again marking the edge top and bottom with tape.

This piece was taken off and laid on top of the previous sheet.

When we got done we had 4 pieces starting at the stern and

ending near the bow. We decided to put the sheets on in

the inverse order in which they were measured and cut. So

starting at the bow we decided, since the pieces were not very

big, to lay the glass into wet epoxy. With small pieces this

is the way to do business. The next piece was laid onto the

surface with the edges either barely butting or barely over

lapping depending on getting the best lay of the cloth.

When we were all done, there were no wrinkles and no

bubbles ! ! ! The glass was laid on just as smooth as even

the pickiest could as for. Pictures are shown below.

First and foremost is our foreman. This is Jasmine, she

is overseeing us to make sure that we do everything the

right way.

Below, we are putting on the first of the pieces remaining. As was pointed out

above it runs from half way down the side to the gunnel. That's me on the right

and Larry on the left.

The piece of glass has already been set into wet epoxy. We are now wetting it

out. We found that the easiest way to do that is to pour the resin from the tray

( Larry, on the right, is doing that) and to then spread the resin around (which

is what I'm doing -- on the left).

Below, we are working on the last of these lower pieces on this side. We

are done for the day. We are also at a complete stop until the new resin

that I ordered has come in. It is promised for Wednesday (the day after

tomorrow). Not that that is going to do us much good because the

weather man is threatening us with rain Friday and then it is expected

to turn cold. That's me in the foreground.

2009-11-07T11:32:00.000-08:00

Saturday, 7 November 09

The weather yesterday was very cold, so we didn't work on

the boat at all.

Today, the temperature started out cold, but warmed

quickly. Larry is off to a birthday party for one of his grandkids

so I'm along. I decided to cut out all of the bubbles and sand down

the glass around the hole and the surface inside the hole. I cut

small scraps of cloth to fit the holes and mixed up a quarter batch.

The patching process is easy. Brush a little resin into the hole, pick

up the patch scrap and press into place. Hold the patch from moving

and paint over the top of the patch. With a little extra resin on the

brush, daub over the patch until the cloth disappears. Then on to

the next bubble.

Didn't take long and it's all done. When it's all dry, it will leave a

rough spot on the surface that can be sanded down the same as the

non-selvage edge in between the two pieces of cloth. When the

weather permits, we can move the boat outdoors, to get as much

room as possible and start the layout of the pieces that go from the

middle of a side toward the ground (actually toward the gunnel).

We believe that the method used on the first piece of cloth can be

made to work for these pieces because they will be the width of

the cloth (about 5 feet) and about 24 inches (maybe more) to go

from what's there to the gunnel. We feel that one of us at each

end of a piece should be sufficient to hold it up and out of the wet

resin while the area of the piece is gently pressed into the wet.

That 10 foot long piece running from half way down one side, over

the keel to half way down the other side was more than the 2 of us

could handle. With 4 people it might have worked.

2009-11-04T14:16:00.000-08:00

Thursday, 5 Nov 09

This edit is actually being done on Saturday 7 Nov. The first photo

is of the boat moved out to the driveway after having been given

the prime coat of epoxy

Today, Larry and I put on the sheet of glass cloth for the front

of the boat. The cloth goes over the full length keel and part

way down each side, just as for the piece that went on yesterday

for the stern end of the boat.

At the level of the top of the front wheel of the car in the background

but on the boat, you can see the seam of the cloth that was put on

yesterday. Today we used an entirely different way of doing

business. We laid the cloth on the boat dry. Smoothed it out and

positioned it in it's final location and then proceeded to pour resin

onto the surface in small quantities and spreading it around with

Bondo spreaders. That worked like a charm.

The man in the green shirt is Larry. The little guy standing on the

step stool is me. You can see that we have this side almost finished.

In this picture, Larry is pouring the resin from a small container onto the cloth. The

disembodied hand, wearing the rubber glove with the Bondo spreader, is mine. I'm

spreading the resin as Larry pours. This process worked GREAT ! ! ! !

Today we did NOT get ourselves covered with resin, There are no bubbles and no

wrinkles. Further, yesterday, I mixed up 5 one pint batches of resin to cover 10

feet of cloth. Today, I mixed up 3 one pint batches to cover 10 feet of cloth.

Yesterday it was a panic to get the glass wetted out. Today it was a whole lot

quicker and easier and the job proceeded at an easy pace, not leisurely, but a lot

easier.

Covering the keel and down part way on the two sides is expected to be the worst

of the glassing process. When we were done, we celebrated by sharing a jar of

Guinness ! ! ! ! and toasted our progress ! ! !

2009-10-31T11:57:00.000-07:00

Wed, 4 Nov 09

Yesterday was clear calm and chilly. We decided to

move the boat out into the driveway and paint it with

the primer coat of epoxy. We used West System

epoxy with their slow hardener. It should have set

within 3 hours enough to start the first sheet of glass.

We started at 8:00 AM. At 11:00 AM the resin was

still WET ! ! ! My wife and I decided that we had to

go downtown to pay some bills, do some business

at the bank and get some groceries. We got back

home at about 3:00PM. The resin was finally dry.

Being alone, I could not move the boat back into the

garage, so I covered the boat with a tarp and left it

overnight. I checked the tarp at about 9:00 PM.

It was sopping wet from dew.

Apparently there was a strong breeze during the

night, because the tarp was lying on the ground this

morning. Larry and I moved the boat inside. Usually

we position the boat diagonally across the 3 car

garage making it easier for us to move around. This

time, however, we decided to run the boat straight

in because straight in gives more room on each side

for working on the glass. Straight in, it just fits.

One of the internet articles on "How To Work With

Fiberglass" says that after putting on the primer coat

of resin, to put on the wetting coat and to then lay

the glass into the wet resin. We studied the problem

of how to handle a large sheet of glass so that it wouldn't

droop too badly into the wet resin where we didn't

want it and decided that prudence dictated that we

start with a small piece rather than one that ran the

entire length of the boat. We chose to run the first

piece 1/2 the length of the boat. Laying a 10 foot

length of glass 5 feet wide over a fin keel that runs

the length of the boat and into wet resin is a BAD

idea ! ! ! We did manage to get the sheet on without

wrinkles and with only a few bubbles before the

resin set up.

We found that first there is NOT enough resin to

completely wet the cloth. Second, we had to move

the wet cloth around quite a bit to get it to lie

smoothly -- this of course got us covered with

resin. Neither of us is sensitive to the resin on our

skin. Moving the cloth with it having gotten wet

from contact with the wet surface in conducive to

the creation of bubbles (that you cannot get out

without cutting the cloth).

Tomorrow, the piece of glass that goes over the

full length keel at the forward end of the boat will

be done some OTHER way ! ! ! At the moment,

both Larry and I feel like we've been yanked thru

a knothole.

2009-10-31T11:30:00.000-07:00

Saturday, 31 October 09

At long last, all of the dimples have been filled

with resin putty and and everything has been

ground down to smooth. As of yesterday,

we have received 2 gallons of epoxy resin and

2 quarts of hardener. We also have enough

10 oz. (I think) glass to cover the entire hull.

As a matter of academic curiosity, we laid out

a sheet of 58 inch wide glass over the keel and

smoothed it all out. The hull was marked with

tick marks at judicious places to ease the

replacement of the cloth and the cloth rolled,

folded and put away. Now, when the weather

breaks, we will roll the boat out into the drive-

way to put on the primer coat of epoxy and

follow that with the first piece of cloth. The

weatherman is talking about rain thru the week-

end and Monday. In the meantime, I can go

get the paint rollers, cheap brushes, Bondo

spreaders, and a large diameter wooden dowel

(for rolling out bubbles). While I'm at it, I will

collect all of the tools needed for the job --

scissors, roller handles, paint trays, etc.

AN ALSO REQUIREMENT, IS A COUPLE OF

JARS OF GUINNESS TO CELEBRATE OUR

SUCCESS WHEN WE GET THAT FIRST PIECE

OF GLASS ON ! ! !

As a matter of interest to those who might want

to know, the total cost to build the boat to this

point is $1588.51. This cost includes, making

the skateboard that the boat is built on, the

casters to move it around, the surfacing of the

skateboard, 1X12 SYP boards for the keel, glue,

plywood for the station frames, 1/2" SYP

exterior underlayment plywood for planking,

screws, sisal rope for stuffing into cracks

between planks to minimize the thickness of

the resin putty used to fill the cracks, the putty

itself, sanding belts and disks for grinding

everything to smooth, the glass and the epoxy.

2009-10-17T10:49:00.000-07:00

Friday 17 Sept 09

We have been going over the entire boat filling all of the cracks with

resin putty. We are now in the process of grinding off all of the high

spots so that dimples can be filled in preparation for applying tape

to all of the joints. One side has had its first sanding. The other

side needs to be sanded.

Progress came to a halt for over 2 weeks so that my wife and I could go

north to visit my 101 year old mother before winter begins. It snows in

northern Conn. and all across northern NY state and the foliage is still

changing color so it is still more or less safe to go north to both Conn

and upstate NY to visit family and friends that were left there when we

emigrated to North Carolina about 9 years ago.

We are now back, and back to work on the boat. Until I can get my

muscles back into shape, progress is likely to be a little slow.

2009-09-23T05:06:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #11

The boat almost completely planked (everything except the hollow keel) is shown

below:

The planking was finally finished. Crevasses were noticed between planks. I was told by someone that it was not a good idea to fill a deep wide crack full of any kind of filler because thick coats of filler would tend to crack after awhile. After some consideration, we decided to caulk the boat as if it were truely wooden boat so I bought a roll of cheap sisal 1/4" D three lay rope. I unlaid a length and we started filling the cracks with the sisal pushed in with a screw driver or brick chisel or what ever else would do the job. Every effort was made to ensure that the sisal did not project above the surface. Filling the cracks with the sisal has the added attribute that less putty will be needed to fill everything flush to the surface.

When that was done, we proceeded to paint the boat with a mixture of 1 part resin to 3 parts acetone with enough hardener for 4 parts of resin. This was as per instructions found on a website for "Waterproofing Wood" at:

http://www.hares.net/boat/waterproofing.htm

The stuff was thinner than water and flowed down the side almost as fast as it soaked in. I would mix up 1 cup of resin and 3 cups of acetone and when that was mixed it was almost time to add the necessary amount of hardener for the next batch. I would get to rest a moment or two until Larry was almost ready for the next batch. Larry would get to rest a moment or two while I mixed in the hardener.

As soon as this had been put on we started back at the beginning, but this time with a mix consisting of 2 parts of resin and 2 parts acetone,and again with enough hardener for 4 parts of resin. We operated pretty much the same way. In both mix instances, special attention was paid to the sisal filled crevasses to ensure that the rope got saturated. On this thicker batch Larry noticed that the mix did not run quite so badly. It soaked into the wood, but we did notice that occasionally there would be small areas on the surface where most of the mix soaked in but left a sign of its presence on the surface. In the instructions on the website, it points out that you will know when you've got enough coats because you will not see any coloration changes indicating acetone soak-up. For us 2 coats appeared to be enough.

When done with the second coat, we stopped working until the next day. The following day, inspection showed that the rope in the crevasses had gotten saturated and was fairly stiff. A check on the edge of a sheet of plywood where the edge had NOT been targeted for extra attention, we noticed that the mix apparently soaked in to the depth of the first layer of glue. In otherwords at least 1/8 inch deep.

The boat was given a quick swipe with an acetone dampened rag, and we started filling the screw holes and the rope filled crevasses with a resin putty. This morning (22 Sept 09) we sanded the boat with some pretty coarse sandpaper to get it smooth enough to fill the dimples left at the screw holes and cracks because the putty shrunk when it set. That operation will occur on buying the putty. My financial situation is expected to improve dramatically, this coming Friday. So buying the putty won't wait until too long after all of our other bills have been paid. Putting the next coat of putty will occur after buying it and when time, opportunity and ambition all coincide.

2009-09-22T07:31:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #10

The photo below

shows the boat in its new home. Careful checking shows that nothing has shifted out of proper place.

During the design of the boat, it was decided that the deckhouse should go all the way from one side of the boat to the other rather than have the deckhouse sit on

a main deck with little side decks. It was felt that the result would not only be a stronger boat but the little side decks are nearly useless for going fore and aft. The result is that the side of the deckhouse is almost 24 inches from the sheer up to its top near the cockpit.

Two pieces of 1/2" thick SYP underlayment plywood were cut down the middle and the better faces put together with a scarf joint. The scarf is almost 5-1/2 inches

wide. The rough shaping was done with a 24 grit disk in an angle grinder which removed wood very fast. When the scarf was almost finished, we (Larry and I) shifted to a belt sander with 40 grit paper. It took about 35 minutes to form the scarf shown below.

A temporary work table was constructed using those 6 sawhorses and four 12 ft long 2X4's were cleated together end to end in pairs to make 2 trestles to lay the plank plywood on to draw the "Chines" (so called by the Hulls program). The planking plywood was 1/2 4X8 SYP exterior grade underlayment just like what was used for the frames.

The scarfed pieces were painted with glue and joined. When the joint was dry, the shape of the plank that makes the side of the deckhouse was laid out on the scarfed pieces according to what the Hull program calls chine #7 and cut out with a power hand saw. The pieces were attached to the frames with 1-5/8 screws placed every 3 inches apart. The stern end projects into the cockpit area because of a little uncertainty on our part as to exactly what should be done at the cockpit. The fit checked out really pretty good.

Before going to the next "Chine", the bevel between planks was measured between each pair of frames and short pieces of wood were cut and beveled to the required angle and attached to the plank already screwed on the boat. The attachment was by way of 1-1/4" screws countersunk into the edge of the plank. This was in preparation for the attachment of the next plank so it could be screwed to something in between the frames.

The planks were drawn and placed in inverse order (i.e. #7 was just done so #6 is next, etc.). Not being entirely sure of the program, we cut each "chine" about 1/2 inch oversize and fitted it. Turns out that was a good idea because somewhere somehow

we got something not quite right. The "chines" as set by the program were only almost right. Every one of them needed to be fitted. Not by much, but enough to be annoying because each plank had to be fitted and recut. The recut usually amounted to 1/2 inch or less.

Each plank was attached to the little blocks of wood mentioned above that were attached to the frames for the purpose of giving sufficient surface to screw into. In addition each plank was attached to the blocks that were beveled and put between the frames to give something meaty to screw to. Screws into the blocks at the frames were 1-5/8" long and were spaced 3 inches apart. Screws into the blocks in between frames and which acted like chines were 1-1/4 " long and were also spaced 3 inches apart. In some places we used butt blocks to attach 2 pieces of plywood together. The butt blocks when used were short pieces of 1X4 running from chine to chine and spanning the seam by 1/2 the width of the 1X4 and were attached with 1-1/4 screws spaced 3 inches apart.

2009-09-21T08:24:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #9

There was no work done on the boat over the winter. Further, over the winter, the economy went into a depression and I was forced to vacate the house on the shoreline of the river and return to the house on the canal. The distance between the two houses is about 1-1/2 mile. The strength built into the keel and into the skateboard was severely tested when the boat was moved from one house to the other. The move is shown below:

I'm on the tractor. That's my friend Larry keeping the boat on the top of the crown of the road. This photo shows 4 casters on each side and that is because we borrowed extra large casters from a neighbor so that the rig would perhaps roll easier.

Larry is contributing an enormous amount of help in building the boat.

When he started, he didn't know too much about boatbuilding or boat

carpentry, but he is a retired engineer (like me) and is fascinated

by the idea of building a boat, and best of all is a super fast study. I'm over 80. When I reach the point when it is no longer safe for me to venture out, he will inherit the boat and I will be passenger.

2009-09-20T05:40:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #8

The frames are shown in the accompanying series of figures. In these figures, each frame has a slot cut at the bottom to accommodate the spine. The frame extends from the baseline to a fixed height above the keel even when the extension is not a part of the boat but is there merely to support the frame on the skateboard and at the keel. The stations from the bow to station frame 13 (the after end of the cabin) extend to the cabin top. The station frames behind 13 are artificially extended to make the structure come out right. The narrow portion at the top of station frames 3,5,7,and 9 support the roof of the cabin decktop. Something similar is also shown in station frames 15, 17, and 19 but only for consistency. The frame edge between the cutout and the outside of the frame is 2-1/2 inches to give adequate strength for support of the planking.

The frames are made from 1/2" 4 X 8 BC external southern yellow pine 4 ply plywood. It is used commercially for underlayment because it is very nearly free from voids and because the glue is an external glue.

I read somewhere that the external glue used in plywood like this and the glue used for marine plywood are the same.

Other dimensions given on the sketches of the frames concerns the size of the cutout.

The next figure shows all of the frames in place and that there are temporary carlins. The function of the carlins is to bind the frames together to ensure squareness and to enhance rigidity before the planks are put on. You may note in

this figure that there are short pieces of 3/4 stock attached to the frames (glued and screwed). These blocks were made by cutting a length of 1x3 to the appropriate length between the chines. Then the bevel between the station frame and the carline was measured with a bevel guage and the table saw was set to the bevel and the two edges of the 1X3 were beveled. The 1X3 was split lengthwise to make a glue block for each side. These pieces attached to the frames are intended to give adequate surface for screwing on the planks. The carlins will be removed as the planks are put on. The planks will be screwed to the frame blocks. In between frames will be short pieces of stock will be beveled and attached to a frame already on to give a surface to screw a plank to between frames. This is then a modified stitch and glue construction technique. More on this later.

2009-09-19T11:07:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #7

The boat is to be built upside down on a platform on casters so that it can be moved outside of the garage where construction is taking place to the driveway when comes time to tip the boat on its side to work on the inside. We call that platform the skateboard. It was made by laying those 3 pieces on OSB on the sawhorses with the long edges as close to being a straight line as possible. Along one edge there is one 12 ft 2X4 followed by an 8 ft 2X4. Right next to it there is an 8 ft 2X4 followed by a 12 ft 2X4. These are laid on the upper side and attached to the OSB with screws put in for underneath. The same thing is done on the other side. This gives quite a bit

of strength and minimizes the weeknesses at joints. The same thing is done on the other side. Then there are a dozen 3" D swivel casters lag bolted to the 2X4's eve

ry 4 feet apart.

When this was finished it was tipped right side up and set on the floor.

The center was found at each end and a straight line was laid out with a mason's snap line and darkened with a carpenter's pencil. The forward perpendicular was established and marked and then a perpendicular drawn at every foot interval the length of the skateboard. Frames 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19 and the transom. Those frame numbers refer to the number of feet from the forward perpendicular. At each of the above stations, a 2X2 cleat was screwed to the longitudinal arms of the skateboard. The frame at each of the named stations will be a permanent part of the boat. Each is frame is cut out with a notch to fit the keel spine. The keel assembly was suspended from the ceiling of the garage and station

frames 7 and 13 were assembled and attached to their respective skateboard cleats.

These frames were propped up to nearly vertical and the keel spine lowered into the notch. The station frame was attached to 2X3 floors attached to the spine tho the

photos do not show them. With these two station frames attached to the keel spine, it is a matter of making them plumb. A plumb bob was used to ensure that the station frame was plumb and also that the center line of the keel spine was directly over the centerline on the skateboard. Extreme fussiness here is important. Once properly plumbed, a 4X5 scrap piece of plywood was temporarily screwed to the keel spine and cleated to the station frame. Then considerable effort was expended to ensure that the point of the bow of the stem came out exactly (actually with 1/4 inch) of the position of the forward perpendicular and secured in place. This attachment is shown in the next figure.

An idea of the construction of the stem and its connect

ion with the sp

ine is shown in the figure below:

A view forward from the position of station frame 7 is shown next:

In this picture you can see that some of the station frames have cutouts and others do not That is because these frames are permanent parts of the structure of the boat. The station frames have the accommodations incorporated into the form of the frame. In addition, each frame is extended from the keel baseline all the way to the building platform (since the boat is being built upside down).

2009-09-18T07:58:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post #6

I have 5 sawhorses that all made exactly alike. I set them up with 3 pieces of 1/2 OSB to make a table so that I could draw the stem out full size. I made sure that the long edge of one piece was continuous with the long edge of its neighbor and chose one of the edges to be the baseline. That way I could start building the stem and the keel together as a single monolithic piece. I set the boards of the keel down so they projected over the edge of the baseline by about 1/8 inch to accommodate the fact that the boards were not perfectly straight and that overlap would give me a tiny amount to trim to make the final baseline as straight as possible.

The boards as they were laid down were screwed in place from the underside so they wouldn't move. When all of the boards were in place especially for the stem, I started laying down the boards for the second layer. They were screwed temporarily to the first layer until I was satisfied that I got everything right and that I had as much overlap as possible, especially at the stem. Then everything was index marked and the second layer of boards were taken up one at a time and Titebond glue was painted on. the boards were laid back to their index and screwed down using countersunk 1-1/4 inch screws. When it was all assembled, it was allowed to sit on the table for a couple of days until I was sure the glue was completely set. Then the the baseline was marked using the trued edge of the table as reference. The contour of the stem was drawn. The keel/stem was then turned over to cut the baseline and turned back to trim the stem. The port and starboard sides of the stem are shown below.

A 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 stern post was made to fit into a notch cut into the deadwood of the skeg and fitted with the keel/stem still on the flat surface of the 24 foot long table. When fitted it was screwed in place with 3 inch screws so that it wouldn't move. At the local hardware store, I bought a couple of 3/8 diameter 13 inch long spikes. I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/4" d. keel drill. Counterbored for the heads and drilled thru the post with aa 3/8" d. drill so the spikes would pass. Then the pilot holes for the body of the spikes were redrilled to 5/16" so the holes would be 1/16 inch undersize. Then drove the spikes home. This is a very old fashioned assembly method where in the old days those spikes would be called drifts. A word of warning, once started driving the spikes DO NOT STOP. Also, DO NOT hit the spikes off center so as to bend the spike, because if you do, you have a serious problem because you will be unable to remove the spike ! ! !

The keel is made as a spine but it has a 2 layer thick flange running the entire length. To do this four SYP 1X10's were bought. Two were cleated together end to end, and a centerline snapped. One of the 10 footers was cut in half so that a second layer could be made with a 5 foot overlap over the join in the first layer. The two layers were temporarily screwed together. The bottom of the keel was drawn to the outside of the planking and the assembly cut. These were centered on the bottom of the keel and glued and screwed into place.

Finally, 2X10 SYP boards were laid on the shaped keel bottom so that the edges of the plywood planking on the sides of the keel would not be exposed to abrasion. This extends the keel to below the baseline by 3/4 inch -- it was felt that this would not adversely affect the overall design. The finished keel with flange is shown below:

The construction of the keel is finished, but before taking it off the table, I went over the entire thing, marking the one foot marks as measured from the point of the bow (i.e. the position of the forward perpendicular). When these were all marked, my friend Larry and I carefully lifted the stem/keel/stern-post assembly off of the table so as to prepare to make the boatbuilding platform which we have called the "Skateboard".

2009-09-17T07:04:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post # 5

As can be seen from the figure showing the front, side and top views of the boat, there is a fixed keel that runs the entire length of the boat. I realize that I will be sacrifying some speed due to the large wetted surface for a certain measure of tracking ability, but considering that this is a cruiser and that I am never in any particular hurry, that is acceptable. That keel extends below the bottom-most plank and is hollow, unless I build it up to be solid wood. By being hollow, thought, it allows for ballast to be put in it and very low in the boat to improve the righting moment. I decided to make the keel as a spine running the entire length, to made up of 2 layers of southern yellow pine 1X6's and 1X8.

The spine would then be stiffened using a flange attached to the bottom of the spine to make a T-beam -- the flange being made up of 2 layers of SYP 1X8's. The bottom of the flange is the baseline and so the flange needs to be shaped to the curve of the hull at the baseline. The consequence is a T-beam having a 1-1/2 inch thick web of variable height and a 1-1/2 inch thick variable width flange. A cross section is shown below:

Since the keel can be as much as nearly 8 inches wide, the sides will be enclosed by balls that the program defines as chine. The walls make a hollow that can be filled with ballast. The enclosed volume is calculated to be about 1.9 cuft. If a packing fraction is assumed (like 80%) then lead pellets will give about 1100 lbs of ballast -- iron will give 760 lbs. and washed pea gravel would give about 240 lbs. From above, the center of buoyancy at a 15 degree heel is toward the heel from the centerline. The center of the ballast in the hollow keel should be about 4 inches away from the center of buoyancy which will augment the righting moment by about 367 ft-lbs for lead (250 ft-lbs for iron and only 80 ft-lbs for gravel). The total righting moment now becomes 950 for lead and 840 for iron. These values are far more acceptable. Further, the difference between lead and iron is not great enough to force a requirement for lead. If there is only the skipper aboard and if he weighs say 175 lb, then since the total half beam is 40 inches, the center of the skipper's weight should be at least 24 inches (since the boat is heeled), giving an additional righting moment of another 350 ft-lbs, which is about 150 ft-lbs more than required.

The plans are actually the table of half frames and chines. These tables can be obtained from the program by using the create feature. NOTE, that frames can be created at only 8 places along the length for a given "create". To get more than 8 frames, the program needs to be run twice with a different set of positions on the second time. It turns out that in each case the frames are numbered 1 thru 8. SO,

immediately after the first "create", the frames will have to be relabeled. Another

gotcha, is that each "create" generates a table of values for the frames and the "chines" and each time the table is called "handplot" which MUST be renamed after the first create.

The boat will be built upside down on a platform like a skateboard -- with casters underneath to allow it to be moved from inside the garage, where construction will take place, to the driveway when time comes to fiberglass or to tip the boat over so as to work on the inside.

The stem will be made as a lamination of 2 layers of SYP 1X6 and 1X8 boards and will be made as if it were a part of the keel. Southern yellow pine is readily available here in the south. It is very hard, very heavy and very strong. It was the wood used south of Baltimore for the heavy frames of wooden ships back in their day. It was the south's substitute for white oak.

There are a number of frames that will be made for various places along the length of the boat that will be permanent parts of the boat.

2009-09-16T08:32:00.000-07:00

Nomad Post # 4

From the previous post, we have a load waterline length of 231 inches and a load waterline beam of 60-1/12 inches. The usual formula for sail area based on waterline length and beam is

sail area = 2.75 * (waterline length) * (waterline beam)

= 2.75 * ( 231/12 ) * ( 60.5 / 12)

= 267 sq. ft.

This number might change later, but will work for the time being.

The center of later area of the hull, from the previous posting is 123 inches from the bow and 9.5 inches above the baseline. The center of buoyancy is 121.5 inches from the bow and up 12.94 inches. Both of these, of course, are when the boat is upright. At a heel of 15 degrees, the righting moment as given by the heel calculation of the program, is 758 ft.lbs. The center of gravity for the boat is 24.63 inches above the baseline. The center of buoyancy is 11.63 inches above the baseline and toward the heel by 3.9 inches from the CG.

The force of the wind times the height to the center of the sail area must be less than the right moment. The wind force is given as

wind force = 0.00658 * (sail area) * (square of wind speed)

Above 15 mph, sailing gets difficult and dangerous in a small boat. A 15 mph wind will give a wind force of 1.48 * (sail area). Therefore,

(sail area) * (height to center of sail area) must be less than

( righting moment) / 1.48

i.e. less than 758 / 1.48 = 512

The sail plan for a boat should be more concerned with the usage to which the boar will be put, than to the maximum area that can be supported. There are a few things than can be assumed. Firstly, a reasonable boom length is about 10 feet, and a reasonable foot length for the foot of the jib is about 7 feet. The previous calculations indicate that this boat is best suited to be a sailing cruiser. Consequently, it is likely to have to put into places where it would be best to be able to raise and lower the mast quickly and easily. This suggests a mast in tabernacle. For a mast in tabernacle, the hinge point for the mast will be above the baseline by the height of the cabin top above the baseline plus some clearance. The height of the cabin top above the baseline can be taken to he the height of the point of the bow or about 60 inches. Add about 6 to 8 inches for clearance giving an lever arm to the center of sail area about 70 inches plus the height of the center of area above the boom. The tallest mast that is easy and inexpensive to make is 16 feet, that being the length of the longest readily available spruce dimension stock from the local lumber yard.

A potential sail plan is shown below. The problem with this sail plan is that the mast above the boom is 18 feet. To use 16 foot material means that the hinge for

the mast in tabernacle is about 2 feet above the cabin top -- which can be done.

The center of area (CA) for the above proposed plan is 3.8 feet aft of the mast and 3.83 feet above the foot of the sail. The moment arm of the center of sail area above the center of buoyancy is 3.83 feet plus 70 inches above the baseline minus the height of the center of buoyancy at 15 degrees 25 inches. This gives 46 + 70 -

25 = 91 inches = 7.58 feet therefore

(sail area) * (moment arm) = 131 * 7.58 = 993 ft.lbs

which is 481 ft lbs over the maximum safe limit and would be unacceptable except that the prudent sailor would have reefed the sail long before being heeled so far.

When we get to talking about the keel we can revisit this.

2009-09-15T10:45:00.000-07:00

Nomad Third Post

By the way, we moved from the canal to the shoreline of our river. The river is about 50 miles long and at our house is about 2 miles wide. Great place for a sailor. The bank of the river at our new house is almost 32 feet above the water level. The move took place in 2007.

The picture above shows the lines of Nomad. They were obtained from the hulls program by getting a snapshot of the Hulls program working drawing page. The snapshot was then dropped onto a CAD program giving an engineering type of drawing showing all three views. There are 8 chines even tho the picture looks like the boat has a round bottom. The horizontal line in the side view from the top of the bow to above the top of the transom is an addition that wouldn't really belong there except that I decided to make the cabin top run all the way from one side of the boat to the other. This cabin top is only supposed to run back 13 feet from the bow but seems to run all the way to the stern. This is no particular problem.

Using the displacement of 2300 pounds, there are some interesting items of information that can be obtained from the Hulls program. The center of bouyancy is 121.5 inches from the forward perpendicular (FP) and is 12.94 inches above the baseline. The center of lateral area is 123 inches from the FP and 9.5 inches above the baseline. The top of the keel at BH 2 is 5.4 inches above the baseline. The LWL extends from 236.5 from the FP to 5.1 inches from the FP to give a LWL length of 231 inches. The waterline beam is 60.5 inches. The maximum beam is at BH 2 and is 80 inches. The Overall length is 240 inches and the proposed sail area is 131 square feet.

One of the calculations that can be made is for heel in which the heel angle can be changed. Trial and error gives a capsize angle of about 31 degrees.

There is a website:

http://www.sailingusa.info/cal__avs.htm

........ the characters between cal and avs. => are underscore, underscore

This website gives an extensive list of useful formulae for calculating a number of interesting attributes for a boat. The website allows for entering certain values into forms and the site computes the attributes for you.

For example:

The Capsize Formula estimates a boat's resistance to capsizing. Results less than 2 indicate stability, and greater than 2 indicates a relative vulnerability to capsize. For Nomad the value is computed as 2.02 making Nomad only marginally suitable for open ocean sailing.

The Angle of Vanishing Stability is computed to be 113 degrees. The capsize angle of 31 degrees arrived at above is for an open boat and capsize occurs when the gunnel goes under water. The Angle of Vanishing Stability is quite different since it assumes that the boat is decked over so water cannot get to the inside and

when heeled to the AVS that there is enough of a moment arm between the center of gravity and the center of bouyancy that the boat can still right itself. Of course this Angle should be taken with a grain of salt and discounted until such time a the self right capability can actually be ascertained by direct experiment.

The Sail Area to Displacement Ratio indicates how fast the boat will be in a light wind. The higher the number, the faster the boat. Cruising boats have ratios between 10 and 15. Cruiser-racers between 16 and 20. Nomad checks in at 12.03 and so is definitely a cruiser.

The Motion Comfort Ratio predicts the speed of the upward and downward motion of the boat as it encounters waves and swells. The faster the motion, the more uncomfortable the passengers will be. The higher the value the more comfortable the ride. For the Nomad design this number is 14.48. According to the website

http://www.tedbrewer.com/yachtdesign.html

ratios will vary from 5.0 for a light daysailer to the high 60s for a super heavy vessel. Moderate and successful ocean cruisers will fall into the low-middle 30s range. This definitely indicates that Nomad is an inshore or protected water cruiser.

Nomad -- second post

2009-09-15T10:24:00.000-07:00

Second Post.

The Hulls program gives a display of the front view consisting of the x and y dimensions of the sections in the Table of Offsets (see first posting) all drawn in proper relation to one another. There is also a side view having the y and z dimensions. And finally a top view using the x and z dimensions. When you click on any point in a particular view, you are able to move that point wherever you want it to go. This allows you to fair that point in relation to the other points in the view. It is important to "Lock the Bulkheads" in the z-direction or the Table of Offsets will become useless. Any move that you make with a point will also be reflected in the Table of Offsets.

There are other capabilities available to the user. You can make an estimate of the displacement. By trial and error, by entering a trial guess as to displacement, you can see where the load waterline comes out to be say in the side view. The load waterline (LWL) should be at or close to the top of the deadwood of the skeg and should NOT extend up onto the transom. At the top of the skeg, water flowing past the boat will flow easily. If the waterline is up on the transom, then water flowing past the boat will separate from the skin of the boat just behind the transom and there will be an eddy between the laminar flow past the skeg and the backside of the transom. This eddy will contribute to drag.

The value arrived at this way, for this boat was 2300 pounds, and puts the LWL up 19 inches above the baseline. This, then, is the minimum depth of water for floating the boat.

The non-engineer might want to skip the next 2 posts as they are going get rather technical.

2009-09-14T18:23:00.000-07:00

About 15 years ago, I built a slightly scaled down replica of a Connecticut River Drag Net Fisherman from the table of offsets in Howard I Chapelle's book on History of American Small Craft. That was when we lived along the shore of a large lake in upstate NY. The boat spent the boating season in a boat hoist and since I had put a drain in the bottom of the boat, there was never a problem with the collection of water when it rained. About 8 years ago, we moved south and now the boat lives in the water throughout the boating season. Every time it rains, I have to bail out the boat, which as I get progressively older is getting to be more of a problem. So I decided to rebuild that Drag Net Fisherman, but this time scaled up a little -- enough to have a cabin and a self draining cockpit. I started building in the fall of 2001. Hurricane Isobel came thru here in September of 2003. By then the hull had been completely strip built, upside down, just like the first. It had been fiberglassed and painted. The hurricane flooded my garage almost waist deep. Enough that the wood inside the boat soaked up enough water to crack the fiberglass. No matter what I did, I could not get the wood to dry out. I finally gave up and sawed the boat up into small enough pieces to take off to the dump. In disillusionment, boat building stopped for several years.

A year and a half ago,about Feb 2008, I got bitten again by the boat building bug. I had trolled around the internet, and had found a site:

http://www.carlsondesign.com/

where a hull design program can be obtained for free. The program can be found by scrolling down to very nearly the bottom of the web site. The Hulls program designs a hull based upon a Table of Offsets. This table, for Hulls, consists of the stem, 3 intermediate bulkheads and a transom. The boat that I am going to describe is similar to the Cape Cod Catboat of about 1880, also in the History of American Small Craft. The table for "Nomad" (my boat) is reproduced below:

------------ Table of Offsets ---------

--------------- in inches -------------

---------- chine..X"......Y".......Z"...

BH 0 stem 1 keel. 0.01 -- 0.0 ---- 16.09

--------- 2 ----- 0.01 -- 0. ----- 16.28

--------- 3 ----- 0.01 -- 14.52 -- 6.43

--------- 4 ----- 0.01 -- 22.05 -- 4.06

--------- 5 ----- 0.01 -- 27.74 -- 2.88

--------- 6 ----- 0.01 -- 37.45 -- 1.3

--------- 7 ----- 0.01 -- 48.46 -- 0.51

--------- 8 sheer 0.01 -- 58. ---- 0.

BH 1 ---- 1 keel- 0.08 -- 0. ----- 44.91

--------- 2 ----- 3.39 -- 0. ----- 44.91

--------- 3 ----- 3.39 -- 9.1 ---- 44.91

--------- 4 ----- 7.97 -- 15.37 -- 44.91

--------- 5 ----- 11.67 - 21.06 -- 44.91

--------- 6 ----- 15.61 - 28.58 -- 44.91

--------- 7 ----- 18.78 - 37.39 -- 44.91

--------- 8 sheer 20.85 - 45.11 -- 44.91

BH 2 ---- 1 keel- 0. ---- 0. ----- 120.

--------- 2 ----- 3.2 --- 0. ----- 120.

--------- 3 ----- 3.2 --- 5.41 --- 120.

--------- 4 ----- 15.35 - 11.42 -- 120.

--------- 5 ----- 26.51 - 16.72 -- 120.

--------- 6 ----- 33.33 - 20.69 -- 120.

--------- 7 ----- 37.55 - 29.32 -- 120.

--------- 8 sheer 39.39 - 39.02 -- 120.

BH 3 ---- 1 keel- 0. ---- 0. ----- 180.

--------- 2 ----- 2.43 -- 0. ----- 180.

--------- 3 ----- 2.46 -- 9.3 ---- 180.

--------- 4 ----- 13.74 - 14.63 -- 180.

--------- 5 ----- 24.7 -- 20.14 -- 180.

--------- 6 ----- 31.53 - 25.14 -- 180.

--------- 7 ----- 35.48 - 31.65 -- 180.

--------- 8 sheer 37.13 - 40.54 -- 180.

BH 4 ---- 1 keel- 0.34 -- 0. ----- 234.30

transom - 2 ----- 1.29 -- 0. ----- 234.12

--------- 3 ----- 1.29 -- 19.2 --- 236.53

--------- 4 ----- 7.72 -- 25.39 -- 237.32

--------- 5 ----- 15.89 - 30.24 -- 237.90

--------- 6 ----- 22.81 - 33.72 -- 238.37

--------- 7 ----- 26.73 - 39.75 -- 239.04

--------- 8 sheer 28.31 - 46.48 -- 240.